Blog

When, where, and how your hair grows can seem like a huge mystery.  Especially since there are so many factors that can affect it.  For example, one of our customers, let’s call her Cassie, loooooooved her hair while pregnant. Her bundle of joy arrived and then a few months later, her hair started shedding.  A lot of it. Like, tons.  Cassie was freaking out.  Raise your hand if you’ve been there!  

Here we are going to describe the basic hair growth stages: anagen, catagen, and telogen. Understanding these phases will help new-mama Cassie breathe easier and sleep a little better.  Okay, maybe not sleep better.  

Anagen: Growing

The first stage is the longest of the growth cycle.  It can last anywhere from a few months up to 8 years for a single hair! On average, the anagen phase will be at its longest length in your late teens to mid-twenties. The anagen phase length is coded into our genes and regulated by hormones known as androgens, which can either promote or prevent hair growth. And which are currently being researched for their precise effects.

In the first zone of the follicle, the cells in the root of the hair divide and replicate. (Think back to high school biology) Nutrients and hair pigment are added through the dermal papilla to the bulb and help fuel this activity. As the cells divide, they move up the follicle, moving into the keratinization zone. (Area where your hair ‘exfoliates’ and forms keratin)

 This is when cystine links are formed, and the tough keratin scales are formed. The keratin is beginning to stabilize but is not fully hardened. They proceed to the third zone, where they become dehydrated and the cuticle becomes a smooth surface. This is caused by a mild oxidative process (gain of oxygen) that changes the cystine linkages to disulfide bonds, which in turn strengthens the hair cuticle. 

Catagen: Transition

The catagen stage is a very short phase (a few weeks to a few months) that begins the transition from growth (anagen) to resting (telogen). During this step, the cell division slows down in the follicle and the bulb begins to migrate to the surface.

Telogen: Resting

Now the bulb has moved far enough away from the blood vessels that it can no longer receive nutrients. Growth is halted and the bulb has reduced in size, allowing a new root to start developing. This new root is beginning the anagen phase and helps to push the old hair completely out of the follicle.

Remember sweet, postpartum Cassie?  During pregnancy, hormonal shifts prevented her hair from entering the telogen phase, and thus her hair became thicker. However, this hormone shift is short-lived.  After delivery, the hormones shift again, and all the hairs that did not shed while pregnant will shed, AND all the hair “scheduled” to shed at that time will shed simultaneously. And, thus postpartum baldness arrives. Make sure you have a hair catcher down in the shower(!)

Many factors can affect hair growth cycles. One way you may be able to turn the tide in your favor is through regular scalp massage. This stimulates blood flow to the scalp and aids in hair growth. Here are two scalp massagers we like: 

1. https://mymanebio.com/product/scrunch-it-scalp-massager/
2. https://mymanebio.com/product/scalp-massager-shampoo-brush/

References

1. Alexander P. Fellows, M. T. (2020). Nanoscale Molecular Characterizaiton of Hair Cuticle Cells Using Integrated Atomic Forc Microscopy-Infrared Laser Spectroscopy. Applied Spectroscopy, 1540-1550.
2. Cibele Rosana Ribeiro de Castro Lima, R. A. (2019). Heat‐damaged evaluation of virgin hair. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 1885-1892.
3. Duane P. Harland, R. J. (2014). Three-dimensional architecture of macrofibrils in the human scalp hair cortex. Journal of Structural Biology, 397-404.
4. Faduma M. Maddar, D. P. (2019). Nanoscale Surface Charge Visualization of Human Hair. Analytical Chemistry, 4632-4639.
5. Jordana Dias dos Santos, H. G. (2019). Raman Spectroscopy and electronic microscopy structural studies of Caucasian and Afro human hair. Heliyon , e01582.
6. Monika Grymowicz, E. R. (2020). Hormonal Effects on Hair Follicles. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 5342.
7. Rita de Cassia Comis Wagner, P. K. (2007). Electron microscopic observations of human hair medulla. Journal of Microscopy, 54-63.
8. Sandra L. Koch, M. D. (2019). Variation in human hair ultrastructure among three biogeographic populations. Journal of Structural Biology, 60-66.
9. Xu Liwen, Liu Kevin X., and Senna Maryanne M. (2017) A Practical Approach to the Diagnosis and Management of Hair Loss in Children and Adolescents. Frontiers in Medicine. 4(112). doi: 10.3389/fmed.2017.00112

Admit it; you are jealous of that cute little baby. Her hair is silky soft, perfectly shiny, and does not even require a refresh after each nap. As you age, the anatomy of your hair matures (hopefully, along with your patience). To understand how products affect your hair, it is important to understand the different parts that make up the hair. In this post, we will be reviewing what each part brings to the table and how it influences your hair growth. To begin, your hair is made up of two, maybe three, parts: the cuticle, the cortex, and (sometimes) the medulla.

The Cuticle

The cuticle is the protective barrier of the hair. Think of it like the shell on a turtle. Keratin scales develop in an overlapping pattern that surrounds the cortex. Each scale grows by the root point, with an unattached end pointing towards the tip of your hair (looks a bit like the layers of a pine cone.) These scales are somewhat dynamic and will respond to changes in pH and water absorption. They can tighten and lift away from the cortex conditionally.

If you are looking for a shampoo that will get your hair clean but not disrupt the cuticle layer consider Kinky Curly Come Clean Moisturizing Shampoo. It contains C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, which is a great surfactant (fancy word for “cleaner”). However, this shampoo is only moderately concentrated and will not disrupt the cuticle layer so it can be used on a weekly basis. 

(If you are looking for a more serious cleaner consider Malibu Un-Doo Goo Shampoo. We have more information about this shampoo at the bottom of this post.)

Every scale is made up of 5 different sections, (1) the epicuticle, (2) the A-layer, (3) the endocuticle, (4) the exocuticle, and (5) the cell membrane complex. A major difference between these sections is their cystine content. Cystine is an amino acid that contains disulfide bonds (a chemical bond that does not separate easily). Layers that are resistant to water absorption will have higher levels of cystine, which enables the protective nature of the cuticle. The A-layer, exocuticle, and epicuticle all have higher cystine levels, creating a stiff barrier that is water repellant. The endocuticle and the cell membrane complex have much less cystine and tend to absorb things like water and oil easier. When they absorb, they will expand, causing the scale to swell away from the cortex.    

Because the endocuticle is less resistant, this is considered the weakest point of the cuticle and is where stretching or separation damage will happen. Most cuticle damage is caused by friction during hair maintenance when the cuticle scales are separated and delicate. Motions like scrubbing the scalp or brushing hair can show up as rough scale edges, lifting irregularities, and splitting. Make sure you’re gentle with your hair; products aren’t the only answer.

The Cortex

Underneath the cuticle, we find an assortment of various spindle-shaped cells bound together. These are known as macrofibrils, otherwise known as the sensitive protein core of your hair. They are important for structure and define the overall shape of your hair. The cortex is the scaffolding that keeps hair strong, defines curl patterns, and contains the pigment of the hair. There is a lot of research being put into the study of the arrangement of the macrofibrils, and how this affects hair shape. What is known is the number of disulfide bonds in the cortex dictates how elliptical the hair will be. When the cortex is cylindrical, the hair will be straighter. The more disulfide bonds there are, the more ovoid in shape the hair will be. This is what creates the curl patterns of your hair. The number of spindle-shaped cells will also change the hair width and textures, from fine to very coarse hair. The space between these spindles is the cellular membrane, which is considered the primary route of distribution of product into your hair.

Medulla

Not everyone has a medulla in their hair. It is typically found in coarse or gray hairs and is thought to affect the performance of the hair dying process. Interestingly, medullated hair is slightly more difficult to color than non medullated hair because the hollow space results in less hair protein for dye to attach to and is more difficult to fully saturate with hair dye.  The medulla is a liquid pocket between the macrofibrils of the cortex.

During the keratinization stage of growth, dead hair cells are essentially able to be exfoliated out. This allows these sections to naturally dry out, leaving an empty space along the axis of the hair. The medulla can be a continuous hollow space through the entire hair or can be fragmented. There are studies that suggest the function of the medulla is to contain hair lipids that will upkeep hair glossiness, but the research is not conclusive.

Though everyone has a different hair structure, proper care and maintenance of your hair is equally important to keeping your hair as youthful as a baby.

Now that you know the basics of hair anatomy, you are better prepared to choose products that are the right fit for your hair needs. Need recommendations for a shampoo? Here are two we like but each one helps you achieve different goals so be sure to pick based on your specific needs:

1. Kinky Curly Come Clean Moisturizing Shampoo – Contains C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, which is a great surfactant. However, this shampoo is only moderately concentrated and will not disrupt the cuticle layer so it can be used on a weekly basis. 
2. Malibu Un-Doo Goo Shampoo – This shampoo is designed to clarify using both detergents and a high pH.  The high pH indicates that it will slightly raise the cuticle layer to help remove buildup.  We don’t recommend using this more than once a month.  Also, be sure to follow with the paired conditioner to bring the pH back to healthy range for hair.  Most conditioners will do this, but I cannot report that all will. *Do not recommend for those with predominately high porosity hair*

References

1. Alexander P. Fellows, M. T. (2020). Nanoscale Molecular Characterizaiton of Hair Cuticle Cells Using Integrated Atomic Forc Microscopy-Infrared Laser Spectroscopy. Applied Spectroscopy, 1540-1550.
2. Cibele Rosana Ribeiro de Castro Lima, R. A. (2019). Heat‐damaged evaluation of virgin hair. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 1885-1892.
3. Duane P. Harland, R. J. (2014). Three-dimensional architecture of macrofibrils in the human scalp hair cortex. Journal of Structural Biology, 397-404.
4. Faduma M. Maddar, D. P. (2019). Nanoscale Surface Charge Visualization of Human Hair. Analytical Chemistry, 4632-4639.
5. Jordana Dias dos Santos, H. G. (2019). Raman Spectroscopy and electronic microscopy structural studies of Caucasian and Afro human hair. Heliyon , e01582.
6. Monika Grymowicz, E. R. (2020). Hormonal Effects on Hair Follicles. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 5342.
7. Rita de Cassia Comis Wagner, P. K. (2007). Electron microscopic observations of human hair medulla. Journal of Microscopy, 54-63.
8. Sandra L. Koch, M. D. (2019). Variation in human hair ultrastructure among three biogeographic populations. Journal of Structural Biology, 60-66.
9. Xu Liwen, Liu Kevin X., and Senna Maryanne M. (2017) A Practical Approach to the Diagnosis and Management of Hair Loss in Children and Adolescents. Frontiers in Medicine. 4(112). doi: 10.3389/fmed.2017.00112

If humidity makes you want to hide under your bed, you are not alone! The biggest feat with humidity is CHANGES in humidity. Say, for example, you style your hair inside which may have a relativity low humidity level but then you step outside and your perfectly set hair balloons. 🎈🎈🎈Water molecules inside your hair provide needed moisture but they have weak chemical bonds. (Water allows your hair to try to reshape, swell, or shrink so it’s not all bad.) When you go into a place with a different humidity level the bonds break and water moves either into or out of the hair. One way to fight humidity and prevent water movement into and out of your hair is by applying a sealing oil after you have properly moisturized. Remember what you learned in school: water and oil do not mix! The right oil will seal the hair and provide a barrier so you can maintain consistent styling. (And a microscopic hair analysis can help you know which oils will work best for your hair 😉)

Swimming is good for the body and the soul. 💦😁💦Not always so great for your mane, though. 😩 Want to know why??? When chlorinated water gets into the hair strand it can cause damage and swelling of the cuticle layer. (The higher the chlorine level, the worse the damage.) A thin layer of moisturizing oil can be applied prior to entering the pool. This will minimize water absorption from the pool. While swimming 🏊, you could also wear a swim cap lined with oil. What tricks do you use to protect your locks from chlorine?

Did you know that not all alcohols are bad for your hair? Cetyl Alcohol is known as a “fatty alcohol” and is actually solid at room temperature. Because of its unique properties it keeps the water and oil in your products from separating, helps in product distribution, and helps soften hair. This is an alcohol that is totally safe in your products.

Hormones play a big role in determining when and how much hair we shed. So a lot of women get thicker, longer hair during pregnancy 🤰 because the amount of hair they shed decreases drastically. However, some women report thinning hair during pregnancy 🤷‍♀️ which just shows the unpredictably of hormones!

Did you know a strand of human hair has four main layers? The cuticle (outermost layer), the cortex (protein-rich layer), the medulla (innermost), and a cell membrane complex that glues the layers together. And you gotta take good care of every layer!

Your hair’s porosity is determined by your cuticle layer which is made up of “shingles” that overlap like a roof or pinecomb.  When the shingles are close together, evenly layered and flat your hair is considered “low porosity”.  When the cuticle is chipped, uneven, raised or missing your hair is considered “high porosity”.

 

Did you know that a single strand of hair can hold 3 ounces of weight? 💪 (Yes, that’s the same amount that TSA allows in your carry-on containers!) Strength in your hair comes from a protein called keratin. It’s the same protein that is found in our fingernails.