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One of the questions we get asked about most often is about herbal hair dyes and how they affect your hair. In this article, we’ll discuss how dying your hair with conventional dyes is different than with natural dyes, as well as some of the benefits and drawbacks of using both. 

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Conventional Hair Dyes

Let’s talk about what happens when your hair is dyed. When you use conventional dyes on your strands, you can choose from a variety of types, including permanent, semi-permanent, temporary, and gradual. Permanent hair dyes are the most common dyes used, and are also the most damaging to the hair shaft. This is because an oxidative reaction must occur in order for the color (pigment) to  enter the hair shaft.

During this reaction, the cuticle swells and allows hydrogen peroxide, the oxidizing agent, to penetrate the cortex (which, if you remember, is the main layer of the hair). Hydrogen peroxide then breaks the bond between your natural pigment and a protein.  This process lightens the hair and removes the color. Then the goal is to reform protein pigment bonds, but with a new color.  This is not always a perfect reformation which is one reason hair that is colored often needs a bit of extra protein.

Because the cuticle layer must be lifted during the dying process, it is subsequently damaged and cannot return perfectly back to its original, sealed state. This can make it difficult for protein to penetrate the hair to repair the cortex fully. Deep conditioning with protein before and after may help minimize some damage, but most protein works on the hair surface. 

Olaplex No. 3 and CurlSmith Bond Salve are “bond building” treatments that help strengthen the current bonds of the hair without adding additional protein. These products often do not contain protein themselves but help many people with color damaged hair. You can use these products monthly and/or after coloring.

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Natural Hair Dyes

As previously mentioned, dying the hair can be a damaging process- but how do natural hair dyes like henna affect the hair? Dying with natural hair dyes isn’t nearly as damaging as using permanent coloring, because the dye doesn’t actually penetrate the cortex. Instead, it lays on the outer surface of the hair and binds to the keratin, creating a quick stain. Because it isn’t penetrating the cortex, the cuticle layer doesn’t have to be lifted. However, just because it doesn’t damage the cuticle layer doesn’t necessarily mean it reacts well to everyone’s hair. We highly recommend performing a patch test before dying your hair to ensure that your skin doesn’t have any adverse reactions.

So should I dye my hair?

It is entirely up to you! If your hair is excessively damaged, you may want to avoid dye treatments that lift color, instead using dye treatments that deposit color. If you choose to use bleach or permanent dyes to your hair, make sure to take steps to protect your hair from damage. This includes bond building treatments to strengthen your hair before a chemical treatment; or using styling products that contain sealing ingredients to protect the cuticle layer. You can also use alternatives like henna, which can be more gentle on the hair.

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References

Harrison S., Sinclair Rodney. “Hair colouring, permanent styling and hair structure”, Journal of cosmetic dermatology. 2 (2003): 180-5. DOI 10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00064.x

Gallo, F. et al. “Henna through the centuries: a quick HPTLC analysis proposal to check henna identity.” Revista Brasileira De Farmacognosia-brazilian Journal of Pharmacognosy 24 (2014): 133-140.

What makes curly hair curly?

This is something that has been extensively studied, resulting in several theories how our hair actually curls. This includes things outside the scope of our control, such as genetics, type of proliferating hair cells, the asymmetrical keratin contents of the cortex, and the shape of the follicle the hair originates from. First, we will review what causes the hair to actually curl. 

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Shape of Follicle

The shape of the follicle is a big contributor to the curl pattern. It is theorized that the angle of the follicle bend will determine the level of curl the hair will have. The follicle is not always placed perpendicular to the scalp, which is how most diagrams are illustrated. They can bend at different angles, putting a variable amount of force on the developing hair. The following figure illustrates examples of the three types of bends in three dimensions.

A(i) will create straight hair, A(ii) will create wavy hair, and A(iii) will create curly hair.
Westgate, Gillian E., et al. “The Biology and Genetics of Curly Hair.”

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Shape of the Hair Shaft

The shape of the hair shaft will also dictate the level of curl. As the cells proliferate and build the developing hair shaft, it will be soft and similar in shape to the follicle. Follicle tunnel can vary in shape from being a round cylinder to an oval. Straight hair will have an almost perfectly round hair, while curly hair can seem almost flattened or ‘squished’.

B2 cross section of curly hair, B3 cross section of straight hair
Wortmann, Franz J., et al. “Why Is Hair Curly?-Deductions from the Structure and the Biomechanics of the Mature Hair Shaft.”

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Amino Acid Bonds

An important amino acid bond that contributes to curls is Cysteine. Not only does it affect the follicle shape, but can contribute to the tightness of curls and coils. Cysteine’s chemical structure contains sulfide, a sulfur group that loves to bind to itself in disulfide bonds. This type of bond can create ‘hairpin turns’ on the molecular level, which will make the section more densely packed. The more densely packed the area, the flatter the hair shape will appear, causing more of a curl! This is the principle that is used in perm treatments. The chemicals separate the bond between sulfur groups before the stylist places the hair into the desired curl pattern. Then new disulfide bonds will be formed, locking the curls into place. 

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References

Wortmann, Franz J., et al. “Why Is Hair Curly?-Deductions from the Structure and the Biomechanics of the Mature Hair Shaft.” Experimental Dermatology, vol. 29, no. 3, Mar. 2020, pp. 366–372. EBSCOhost, doi:10.1111/exd.14048.

De La Mettrie, Roland, et al. “Shape Variability and Classification of Human Hair: A Worldwide Approach.” Human Biology, vol. 79, no. 3, June 2007, p. 265. EBSCOhost, search.ebscohost.com.ezproxy.uvu.edu/login.aspx?direct=true&db=edsgac&AN=edsgac.A172095080&site=eds-live.

Leite, M. G. A., and P. M. B. G. Maia Campos. “Mechanical Characterization of Curly Hair: Influence of the Use of Nonconventional Hair Straightening Treatments.” Skin Research & Technology, vol. 23, no. 4, Nov. 2017, pp. 539–544. EBSCOhost, doi:10.1111/srt.12368.

Westgate, Gillian E., et al. “The Biology and Genetics of Curly Hair.” Experimental Dermatology, vol. 26, no. 6, June 2017, pp. 483–490. EBSCOhost, doi:10.1111/exd.13347.

Over time, your hair starts to collect a build up of products that need to be removed to avoid damaging your hair. Most are aware of oily build up on hair but there is also “magnetic” build up.   There are certain ingredients that have a strong magnetic hold on the hair (especially in damaged, porous regions).  Even though these ingredients are water-soluble you have to break the magnetic charge to remove them. So, how can you remove the build up on your hair? Sulfate cleansers can be used for oily product build up, while alkyl sulfates remove not only oily buildup, but also the “magnetic” buildup. However, it’s important to know that clarifying every wash would further damage your hair, so it is best to clarify when you no longer can achieve consistent styling. Finding a gentle, but effective clarifying wash is beneficial.

Ingredients to look for include: C 14-16/17 olefin sulfonate, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, and ammonium lauryl sulfate.

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References

National Center for Biotechnology Information. “PubChem Compound Summary for CID 23675606, Sodium C16 olefin sulfonate” PubChem, https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium-C16-olefin-sulfonate. Accessed 13 July, 2021.

The most visible change we see when aging is the new non-pigmented hair showing up. The grey hair is typically caused by a change in activity of the melanocytes (cells responsible for coloring) in the follicle. Greying and white hair also have different structures than when the hair had its color. 

Everyone dreads the day when the typical hair combing is stopped by a shiny gray hair hiding in the mix of them all. Our friend Shelly is no exception. She was able to pluck the few grey anomalies, but they have just about taken over. She just turned 50 and her beautiful black hair suddenly looks like salt and pepper. Whether she chooses to embrace the change or break out the hair dye, your hair routine may need some adjustments. If you can relate to Shelly, your hair routine may also need adjustments.

Why does hair texture change when it turns grey?

When hair strands start to turn grey, the cuticle scales become smaller and coarser. The hair will increase production of keratin cells along the center of the hair shaft. This is why a medulla is more common with age. Hair will become sensitive to things it may have not had difficulties with before. For example, sunlight and heat are much more damaging and can cause bleaching and yellowing respectively. Dye products will have difficulty saturating hair absorbing into the hair at different rates.

To help combat bleaching, yellowing, and brassy hair, use clarifying shampoos to reduce build-up and UV protectant ingredients. to keep the cuticle layer protected.

Why is grey hair difficult to color?

Spotty hair dye or even loss of color is more common due to the new medullas and lack of proteins that would absorb the new pigment. Many people gaining salt and pepper hair get frustrated when the color washes out after only two weeks. This comes from the structural and texture changes that come with new hormonal changes during aging.

As we age, these melanocytes change shape and have a reduction of pigmentation. Unfortunately, it can’t be something we can run or hide from. Genetics usually determines when those pesky little greys will make their debut. Additionally, early loss of pigment can be a sign of some auto-immune diseases, thyroid diseases, Vitamin B12 deficiency, and is a risk factor for heavy smokers. 

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References

Kwon, OS, et al. “Hair Graying Pattern Depends on Gender, Onset Age and Smoking Habits.” Acta Dermato Venereologica, vol. 92, no. 2, 2012, pp. 160–161., doi:10.2340/00015555-1181. 

Kaplan, P. D., et al. “Grey Hair: Clinical Investigation into Changes in Hair Fibres with Loss of Pigmentation in a Photoprotected Population.” International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 33, no. 2, 2011, pp. 171–182., doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00614.x. 

Richena, M., et al. “Yellowing and Bleaching of Grey Hair Caused by Photo and Thermal Degradation.” Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, vol. 138, 2014, pp. 172–181., doi:10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2014.05.017. 

Kwon, OS, et al. “Hair Graying Pattern Depends on Gender, Onset Age and Smoking Habits.” Acta Dermato Venereologica, vol. 92, no. 2, 2012, pp. 160–161., doi:10.2340/00015555-1181. 

What do the cities Los Angeles, Chicago, Phoenix, Indianapolis and Minneapolis have in common? They are the top cities with hard water in the United States! This means that the water has higher levels of dissolved minerals, usually calcium and magnesium, which can show up as a white calcium carbonate deposit. It is widely believed that hard water contributes to brittleness, breakage, and in severe cases discoloration of the cortex proteins. While the deposits are not a health concern, they can wreak havoc to your hair routine! 

What does this mean for your hair?

These calcium carbonate deposits are very small, but show up as an overall dullness or even a yellow tinge in lighter colored hair. The discoloration happens when elevated levels of magnesium and calcium penetrate the cuticle and the metal ions attach to the proteins in the cortex.

This ionization will change the charge of the proteins (i.e. change the pH of the hair), attracting color deposits and causing lifting in the cuticle layers.  Changes in  pH allows the layers to open and close dynamically. For example, a high pH (alkaline) will cause the layers to lift and become more vulnerable to damage. The metal deposits from the hard water will create an alkaline environment and an abrasive contact that leads to discoloration, splits, tangling and increased porosity.

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With all this in mind, how do you protect your hair from these deposits? Aside from adding a water softener filter to the water source, you can remove these deposits using a chelating agent. Chelating agents actively bind to the hard water deposits, break the bonds they would have with your hair, and allow them to fully rinse out. Most chelating shampoos are labeled as either chelating or hard water shampoos. The easiest way to identify chelating agents is looking for EDTA in the ingredients. You will often find EDTA (or a derivative) listed as one of the last ingredients in a product, meaning it is in low concentration. However, if EDTA is at the end of the ingredient list it is acting as a stabilizer and will not effectively remove hard water buildup. You want to find products with EDTA higher up on the list of ingredients to work effectively as a chelating agent for your hair.

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Look for these ingredients higher in the ingredients list:

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If you have difficulty finding a product, there is an alternative method for clarifying hard water buildup is a simple Apple Cider Vinegar rinse (1 Cup water + 1-2 Tablespoons of ACV). ACV is slightly acidic, and in low concentrations can be used to lower the alkaline environment caused by hard water. This will also help loosen the bonds to let them rinse out. 

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References

Luqman, Muhammad Waqas, et al. “To Evaluate and Compare Changes in Baseline Strength of Hairs after Treating Them with Deionized Water and Hard Water and Its Role in Hair Breakage.” International Journal of Trichology, vol. 10, no. 3, May 2018, pp. 113–117. EBSCOhost, doi:10.4103/ijt.ijt_115_16.

Luqman, Muhammad Waqas, et al. “Effect of Topical Application of Hard Water in Weakening of Hair in Men.” JOURNAL OF THE PAKISTAN MEDICAL ASSOCIATION, vol. 66, no. 9, Sept. 2016, pp. 1132–1136. EBSCOhost, search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&db=edswsc&AN=000386138300020&site=eds-live.

Srinivasan, Gautham, et al. “Effects of Hard Water on Hair.” International Journal of Trichology, vol. 5, no. 3, July 2013, pp. 137–139. EBSCOhost, doi:10.4103/0974-7753.125609.

Alahmmed, Lujain M., et al. “Scanning Electron Microscopy Study of Hair Shaft Changes Related to Hardness of Water.” Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology, vol. 83, no. 6, Nov. 2017, p. 740. EBSCOhost, doi:10.4103/ijdvl.IJDVL_1119_16.

It’s no secret that our hair is always at the mercy of the current weather/climate. Whether you’re in constant humidity in Florida, or constant dryness in Las Vegas, it can be hard to achieve the perfect curls, waves, or straight locks. This post was inspired by one of our customers who, bless her heart, has all four seasons. From hot and humid summers to cold and dry winters, her hair certainly experiences it all. In this post, we’ll cover how to manage your hair during every season.

What are Humectants?

Humectants are a type of ingredient that can help moisturize your hair, creating soft and supple hair. They work to evenly disperse moisture from the scalp down the entire hair strand because they help propel your natural oils (sebum). This is why using humectants in your conditioner can help add shine to the hair shaft.

Humectants are hygroscopic (water attracting). This means that humectants draw water from whatever source is available. This is not a problem when the dew points are moderate but when the air is excessively humid or dry, your hair will likely react with the changing climate. Products with strong occlusive properties are a must when using humectants in your stylers. 

What products need humectants?

We recommend that you use humectants in your conditioner, especially if you have low elasticity or high porosity hair. Matrix Biolage Conditioning Balm is a great example of a product with humectants. Notice the high concentration of propylene glycol, a commonly used humectant. (Added benefit: It is not heavy and does not build-up easily on the hair making it a great choice for fine hair.)

If you choose to avoid humectants in your styling products, you can instead lock in moisture using a film-forming humectant. Film-forming humectants are awesome for low-porosity hair but can work on all hair types. They create a film on the hair that is very light and work to slow water loss and soften hair. And voila! Your frizzy locks are maintained. Film-forming humectants are also ideal because they are water soluble and thus will not build-up on the hair. Some of our favorite film-forming humectants are found in Giovanni LA Natural Styling Gel – Strong Hold. It has a high concentration of hydroxyethylcellulose, a film forming humectant, and has plant extracts. 

One more added plus, film-forming humectants work great in a wide range of climates. So for our friends in the desert and dense humidity, this can work for you! 

Residual product build-up remaining after washing. Using water soluble occlusives, like film-forming humectant may help prevent residual buildup.

Very little residual product build-up remaining after washing. This is a great added benefit for using water soluble ingredients in your stylers like film-forming humectants.

You may want to avoid humectants high up in the ingredient lists of your styling products to prevent this level of buildup.

Humectants:

Film-forming humectants:

Our virtual product aisle may help as you select new products or better understand those you are currently using. 

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References:

Byung In Ro, and Thomas L. Dawson. “The Role of Sebaceous Gland Activity and Scalp Microfloral Metabolism in the Etiology of Seborrheic Dermatitis and Dandruff.” Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings, vol. 10, no. 3, Dec. 2005, pp. 194–197. EBSCOhost, doi:10.1111/j.1087-0024.2005.10104.x.

Asnaashari, Solmaz, and Yousef Javadzadeh. “Herbal Medicines For Treatment of Androgenic Alopecia.” Alternative Therapies in Health and Medicine, vol. 26, no. 4, July 2020, pp. 27–35. EBSCOhost, search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&db=cmedm&AN=31221945&site=eds-live.

Pelikh, Olga, et al. “Hair Follicle Targeting with Curcumin Nanocrystals: Influence of the Formulation Properties on the Penetration Efficacy.” Journal of Controlled Release, vol. 329, Jan. 2021, pp. 598–613. EBSCOhost, doi:10.1016/j.jconrel.2020.09.053.

Aging

Menopause. Why? WHY? Sandra’s hair is no longer recognizable to herself. She just turned 52 and has more hair products hiding under her sink than ever before. But all of the bottles are still half full. Might as well use them on the dog. Sandra, you are not alone.  

As we age, our hair starts to go through changes. It’s not the same mane from our early twenties. It may be thinning, with grey hairs popping up rampantly and seems to get dryer faster. This article will review symptoms of aging hair and what it means for your hair care routine. Sandra, you can love your hair just as much as you did in your twenties, but your hair care routine will need to change.

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Thinning

Hair length and density are controlled by hormones known as Androgens. As we age, Gonadotropin-releasing hormone (GnRH) is introduced during menopause, allowing for an increase in the production of hormones, such as estrogen, that will change the morphology (shape and structure) of your hair. The amount of follicles begin to decrease in our 30’s and will cause thinning density.

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Coarseness

The GnRH will also affect the cuticle layer. Since the anagen phase is shortened, the scales will be shorter and more porous. This will increase the hair width allowing for the potential growth of a hollow medulla and a more sensitive cuticle that can be damaged easily by rough grooming practices that would work before. Take care to brush gently, avoid going to bed with wet hair, using vigorous styling habits or applying heat without proper protective styling products that help reduce damage and splits. Products such as deep conditioners will help smooth your hair and help manage the coarse texture.

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Dry Scalp

Hair also appears to become dryer as we age. GnRH will reduce oil production (sebum), which is the main moisturizing component for the hair shaft. Hair may need more consistent mechanical distribution practices, such as hair brushing or scalp massage, and the help of moisturizing oil products along the length of the hair. This is dependent on the type of hair, as fine hair will absorb more oil than coarse hair.

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Greying

Greying hair is caused by the reduction of melanocyte proteins in the follicle, which produces the pigment for your hair. As we age there will be less of these proteins and a possibility of a new medulla if there was not one already. 

Microscopic picture of gray hair near the root

When we begin greying is typically hereditary and cannot be changed. While some will dye their hair, it is important to remember that the change in structure can make it more difficult to absorb the dye, sometimes causing quick fading or even spotty pigment. Talk with your stylist about the best coloring method that would apply to your hair.

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Slow Growth

With GnRH increasing the production of estrogen, the anagen phase of hair is shortened. This means that hair has less time to grow before it will naturally get to the telogen phase and shed, so the length of hair you have become accustomed to can change. Supplements have very little evidence of actually increasing hair growth, as it would be a hormonal change rather than a deficiency of collagen or other ingredients. It is shown that a healthy scalp free of build-up with healthy blood flow will encourage more hair growth. A scalp massage and a healthy diet with appropriate levels of protein, vitamin A, Vitamin B12 and, Iron are the best way to have healthier hair. 

So for all of the Sandra’s out there, make sure you choose the right products for your hair and understand that greying hairs are a fact of life. 

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Reference:
Silver Hair by Lorraine Massey

Richena, M., et al. “Yellowing and Bleaching of Grey Hair Caused by Photo and Thermal Degradation.” Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology, vol. 138, Jan. 2014, pp. 172–181. EBSCOhost, doi:10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2014.05.017.

Itou, Takashi. “Morphological Changes in Hair Melanosomes by Aging.” Pigment Cell & Melanoma Research, vol. 31, no.5, Sept. 2018, pp. 630-635. EBSCOhost, doi:10.1111/pcmr.12697.

Massey, Lorraine, and Michele Bender. Silver Hair: Say Goodbye to the Dye– and Let Your Natural Light Shine! Workman Publishing, 2017. 

Have you noticed your hair isn’t as long as it was before? With age, the anagen (growing) phase of hair will begin to end sooner than it used to in our youth. This is controlled by the ever changing levels of gonadotropin-releasing hormones and our diet! While there isn’t much that can be done about the naturally occurring changes in hormones, we can control the food we eat. 

It is important to have a healthy and balanced diet for many reasons, but we will focus on the nutrients that help our hair. Vitamins and nutrients found in foods that can help strengthen your hair and nails include iron, vitamin A, vitamin B12, and protein.

Sources of Iron

Sources of Vitamin A

Sources of Vitamin B12

If there is no deficiency in your diet, there is little scientific evidence that hair supplements will guarantee an increase in hair growth or strength. If you do have a deficiency in your diet, a multivitamin is helpful as well as, including new sources of vitamins or iron in your diet. Meeting your nutritional needs is the best way to encourage healthy hair growth. Keep in mind that your nutritional needs will change as your body ages.

Another factor of hair growth is scalp health! Your hair needs blood flow to deliver the nutrients to the hair bulb, and excessive buildup or dryness can reduce that flow.

Scalp massage can reduce buildup, bring blood up to the scalp and can relax tension (and who doesn’t want that?). 

References

Al-Azzawi, Farook, and Santiago Palacios. “Hormonal Changes during Menopause.” Maturitas, vol. 63, no. 2, 2009, pp. 135–137., doi:10.1016/j.maturitas.2009.03.009.

Goluch-Koniuszy, Zuzanna Sabina. “Nutrition of Women with Hair Loss Problem during the Period of Menopause.” Menopausal Review, vol. 1, 2016, pp. 56–61., doi:10.5114/pm.2016.58776.

Takahashi, Toshie, et al. “Age-Dependent Changes in Damage Processes of Hair Cuticle.” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, vol. 14, no. 1, 2015, pp. 2–8., doi:10.1111/jocd.12129.

Van Neste, D. J., and D. H. Rushton. “Gender Differences in Scalp Hair Growth Rates Are Maintained but Reduced in Pattern Hair Loss Compared to Controls.” Skin Research and Technology, vol. 22, no. 3, 2015, pp. 363–369., doi:10.1111/srt.12274.