The most visible change we see when aging is the new non-pigmented hair showing up. The grey hair is typically caused by a change in activity of the melanocytes (cells responsible for coloring) in the follicle. Greying and white hair also have different structures than when the hair had its color.
Everyone dreads the day when the typical hair combing is stopped by a shiny gray hair hiding in the mix of them all. Our friend Shelly is no exception. She was able to pluck the few grey anomalies, but they have just about taken over. She just turned 50 and her beautiful black hair suddenly looks like salt and pepper. Whether she chooses to embrace the change or break out the hair dye, your hair routine may need some adjustments. If you can relate to Shelly, your hair routine may also need adjustments.
Why does hair texture change when it turns grey?
When hair strands start to turn grey, the cuticle scales become smaller and coarser. The hair will increase production of keratin cells along the center of the hair shaft. This is why a medulla is more common with age. Hair will become sensitive to things it may have not had difficulties with before. For example, sunlight and heat are much more damaging and can cause bleaching and yellowing respectively. Dye products will have difficulty saturating hair absorbing into the hair at different rates.
To help combat bleaching, yellowing, and brassy hair, use clarifying shampoos to reduce build-up and UV protectant ingredients. to keep the cuticle layer protected.
Why is grey hair difficult to color?
Spotty hair dye or even loss of color is more common due to the new medullas and lack of proteins that would absorb the new pigment. Many people gaining salt and pepper hair get frustrated when the color washes out after only two weeks. This comes from the structural and texture changes that come with new hormonal changes during aging.
As we age, these melanocytes change shape and have a reduction of pigmentation. Unfortunately, it can’t be something we can run or hide from. Genetics usually determines when those pesky little greys will make their debut. Additionally, early loss of pigment can be a sign of some auto-immune diseases, thyroid diseases, Vitamin B12 deficiency, and is a risk factor for heavy smokers.
References
Kwon, OS, et al. “Hair Graying Pattern Depends on Gender, Onset Age and Smoking Habits.” Acta Dermato Venereologica, vol. 92, no. 2, 2012, pp. 160–161., doi:10.2340/00015555-1181.
Kaplan, P. D., et al. “Grey Hair: Clinical Investigation into Changes in Hair Fibres with Loss of Pigmentation in a Photoprotected Population.” International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 33, no. 2, 2011, pp. 171–182., doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00614.x.
Richena, M., et al. “Yellowing and Bleaching of Grey Hair Caused by Photo and Thermal Degradation.” Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, vol. 138, 2014, pp. 172–181., doi:10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2014.05.017.
Kwon, OS, et al. “Hair Graying Pattern Depends on Gender, Onset Age and Smoking Habits.” Acta Dermato Venereologica, vol. 92, no. 2, 2012, pp. 160–161., doi:10.2340/00015555-1181.